Superficial Chemical Peels start at $75
The Signature Blue Radiance Peel begins at $90
Chemical peels have been around for a long time for good reason—they work. See how a chemical peel could heal your skin woes, from acne scars and uneven skin tone to melasma and fine lines and wrinkles.
Everything old is new again, and chemical peels are experiencing a rebirth of sorts as growing numbers of cosmetic doctors turn to these oldies but goodies to address a wide range of skin concerns and conditions.
In 2015, there were 603,305 chemical peels performed, up nearly 25 percent from 2014, the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery reports. Chemical peels are in high demand. What’s great about chemical peels is that they’re low-tech and not intimidating when compared to lasers, and they address the same problems—skin discoloration, texture, and wrinkles. Women have been using peels for over 2,000 years! Cleopatra soaked in milk baths to smooth her skin. The active ingredient in milk is lactic acid (an alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA) and these acids (along with beta-hydroxy acids or BHAs) are still among the most commonly used types in modern peels.
Superficial (Mild) peels
A series of mild chemical peels—on the face, neck, hands, and/or chest—every few weeks is great for busy people because they get significant results with minimal downtime. These are sometimes called the “lunchtime peel.” The weaker peels are the AHA peels or fruit acid peels, most commonly Glycolic Acid, Citric Acid, and Lactic Acid, and can help improve acne scars, skin tone, and texture, diminish fine lines and wrinkles, and reduce the effects of sun damage. These types of peels remove dead cells and debris to regenerate skin cells with less traditional flaking and redness or discomfort associated with more intense formulas, so you get results similar to an intense peel but without the downtime or side effects.
Here’s what you can expect: After a thorough cleansing of the face, the peel is applied with either a brush, a pad, or a cotton swab. You may feel a slight tingling that lasts for the duration of the peel. With the weaker AHA peels, there is generally a very short-term pinkish or ruddy glow to the skin. The before-and-after difference is pronounced. You will look brighter right away with gradual improvement in fine lines, texture, and pigmentation. A series of mild or superficial peels is usually needed for optimal results. Aftercare matters too. Apply lotion or cream until the skin heals, and use sunscreen daily. It’s OK to wear makeup immediately.
Medium-strength peels
What classifies a peel as medium-strength is the percentage of active ingredients. These chemical peels penetrate the outer and middle layers of skin to remove damaged skin cells. The treatment is used to improve age spots, fine lines and wrinkles, freckles and moderate skin discoloration. It also can be used to smooth rough skin and treat some precancerous skin growths, i.e. actinic keratosis. Medium-strength peels use some of the same acids in mild peels, just at a much higher level. For example, trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels when used at more than 25 percent are medium strength, but anything lower would be considered superficial or mild.
Here’s what you can expect: Since these peels are deeper, your skin will be red and swollen after application, and blisters may form and break open. Your skin crusts and peels off in one to two weeks. Your doctor may suggest taking antiviral medication for 7 to 14 days starting before and continuing after the peel if you have a history of cold sores. Other aftercare instructions include applying a lotion or cream to the treated area and avoiding the sun. Makeup is OK after about one week. This is a treatment meant to
be done sparingly, due to the downtime that is required afterwards. Look to medium-depth peels—such as the 25-35 percent TCA and Jessner’s solution—to remedy hyperpigmentation and moderate wrinkles. You may also be a candidate if you have heavy sun damage, leathery skin, and coarse wrinkles that are visible even at rest. Medium-strength chemical peels will also help correct acne scars.
Deep chemical peels
Phenol or more concentrated trichloroacetic acid peels are the strongest chemical peels out there, and they target deep wrinkles, sun damage, and uneven tone. They are especially helpful in
treating vertical lines around the mouth, known as smoker’s lines. Deep chemical peels do tend to work best on lighter skin tones because there is less risk of hypo-pigmentation or bleaching. Phenol peels are ordinarily used on the face only since the skin of the neck and hands tends to be thinner and more delicate.
Here’s what you can expect: Given the strength of these peels, some form of anesthesia is usually required in most individuals. There is some real downtime with phenol peels. Crusting and post-procedure redness occur across the board and can last for weeks. The tradeoff is often dramatic and long-term results. These deep peels will do things that a facelift will not—improve the quality of environmentally damaged skin. Phenol or stronger TCA based peels can be used for more severe skin changes and wrinkles, but these deep peels are not as common given the availability of lasers as well as phenol’s possible link to heart issues.
FAQ’s
Why get a chemical peel?
These days, the term ‘chemical peel’ applies to so many different formulations ranging from weaker glycolic peels that can be done at home to the strongest Phenol peels often require sedation or general anesthesia. These workhorses can correct acne, age spots, discoloration, tone, fine lines (especially under the eyes and around the mouth), freckles, melasma, sun damage, and more. Some peels produce changes that are relatively light and freshen the skin through exfoliation. Moderately deep peels will help various kinds of pigmentation issues. The deeper peels are effective at correcting wrinkles. Peels tend to cost less than laser skin resurfacing, averaging anywhere from $100 to $500 per treatment based on the type of peel.
What is a chemical peel?
A chemical peel is a technique used to improve the appearance of the skin on the face, neck, or hands. A chemical solution is applied to the skin that causes it to exfoliate and eventually peel off. The new, regenerated skin is usually smoother and less wrinkled than the old skin. The new skin is also temporarily more sensitive to the sun.
What are the potential complications or side effects of a chemical peel?
- Temporary or permanent change in skin color, particularly for women on birth control pills who subsequently become pregnant or have a history of brownish facial discoloration.
- Scarring
- Reactivation of cold sores.
What do I need to do before my chemical peel?
- Avoid using retinol products 7 days before your chemical peel.
- Know that sensitive/dry skin may feel more uncomfortable during the procedure due to the lack of an oil barrier on the skin.
- Avoid sun exposure for 2 weeks prior to your appointment.
- You should not receive a chemical peel if you have an allergy to Asprin.
- Know that chemical peels can cause an outbreak of cold sores if you are prone to them.
- Know that sensitive/dry skin may feel more uncomfortable during the procedure due to the lack of an oil barrier on the skin.
- You will feel a mild to moderate stinging and tingling feeling; the skin may tighten and feel warm. Know that it may feel uncomfortable and slightly painful as it is a chemical exfoliation.
- Be aware that in the following days after your treatment, you may experience tightening of the skin, peeling or frosting, and skin sensitivity to light.
What can I expect after the procedure?
All chemical peels require some form of follow-up care to maximize your results and avoid potential complications. Afterward, patients experience a reaction similar to sunburn in the treatment area.
Superficial peels require one to seven days to heal. Treated skin will initially be red and may scale. Lotion or cream should be applied until the skin heals, followed by daily use of sunscreen. Makeup can usually be worn the next day. Lighter superficial peels can be repeated every 2-4 weeks.
Medium peels require 7 to 14 days to heal. Treated skin will initially be red and swollen. Swelling worsens for the first 48 hours. Eyelids may swell shut. Blisters may form and break. Skin crusts and peels off in 7 to 14 days. Skin must be soaked daily for a specified period, followed by an ointment application. Antiviral medication is taken for 10 to 14 days. Mild lotion or cream may be applied. Avoid all sun exposure until healing is complete and for a few months afterward. Camouflage makeup may be worn after five to seven days. A follow-up appointment will be necessary to monitor progress. Medium-depth peels may be repeated every 6 to 12 months.
Deep peels require 14 to 21 days to fully heal. The treated area will be bandaged. Skin must be soaked four to six times daily, followed by an ointment application for the first 14 days. Afterward, a thick moisturizer is applied for the next 14 days. Antiviral medication is taken for 10 to 14 days. Mild lotion or cream may be applied. Avoid all sun exposure for three to six months. Camouflage makeup may be worn after 14 days. Several follow-up appointments will be necessary to monitor progress.
Sun exposure and smoking after a chemical peel must be avoided because they can cause unwanted side effects, including infection and scarring.
What care should I take after the procedure?
- You are more likely to get sunburnt after a chemical peel, and sunlight can cause excessive peeling. Due to this, you will need to be cautious of sun exposure. The amount of time you should do so will vary depending on the depth of the peel.
- Slight peeling and flaking may occur, do not pick or peel at the dead skin but allow it to come off naturally.
- Wear sunscreen daily.
- Keep well moisturized to aid in the sloughing off of peeling skin.
- Be aware darker skin tones can have a reverse effect and darken the skin even more.
- Avoid using retinol products 2 weeks after your treatment.
- Avoid makeup for 3 days after your chemical peel.
- Avoid any other facial treatment for at least 2 weeks after your chemical peel.